As Saint Lucia celebrates Mwa Éwitaj Kwéyòl (Creole Heritage Month), the familiar aromas of green seasoning, fried accra, and simmering bouillon fill kitchens — reminders that food, perhaps more than anything else, anchors Creole culture.
For Rashid Chef Papi Defraitas, a Saint Lucian chef based overseas, those same scents are what connect him to home, heritage, and purpose.
“My passion emerged in the most unexpected way,” Defraitas shared. “Being away from my loved ones during the COVID-19 pandemic, a time when the world stood still and time seemed endless, curiosity and boredom from being pent up all day led me to try something new and turn it into a skill.”
Defraitas’ culinary journey began at home — with trial, error and laughter.
“At first, everyone laughed and said, ‘What a man like you doing in the kitchen? Take care you eh burn down the place,’” he recalled with amusement. “And honestly, there was some truth to it, as anyone who knew me growing up knew I was never the type to be in the kitchen. I was usually the furthest away from it unless it was time to eat.”
What started as lighthearted experimentation soon grew into something deeper. Through determination, practice and “countless trials and kitchen experiments,” Defraitas honed his craft and began sharing his creations online.
“Those early moments ignited a passion that grew into purpose, and gave me the confidence to pursue it professionally,” he said.
That sense of purpose, he explains, always leads back to the flavours of home. For Defraitas, Saint Lucian cuisine is identity.
“It’s a reminder of rich soul food and heartfelt cooking; the kind of food which makes you want to savour every flavour and keep wanting more,” he said.
That connection to home is at the heart of Mwa Éwitaj Kwéyòl, a month when Saint Lucians celebrate their culture through the dishes that define them. For Defraitas, cooking is his way of keeping those traditions alive while making them his own.
“I believe in evolution, not reinvention,” he explained. “My goal is to celebrate our classics while giving them a fresh voice.”
One of the ways he does that is by reimagining local favourites like the beloved fish cake.
“I take the traditional fish cake or ‘accra’ as we call it and plate it in new ways, pairing it with a smooth garlic-lime aioli for dipping to elevate presentation while keeping the essence of the dish intact,” he said.
Defraitas’ kitchen philosophy is rooted in the same principles that have guided generations of Saint Lucian cooks: patience, layering, and the right blend of seasoning.
“I never cook without my green seasoning blend. That’s the backbone of Saint Lucian flavour,” he said. “I always use fresh thyme, ginger, chadon beni, scallions, garlic, onions layered throughout my dishes to build depth. That layering is key, seasoning in stages, letting flavours build naturally. Whether I’m stewing fish or making bouillon, it’s that patience and layering that make our food stand out.”
It’s a method born of heritage, passed down through kitchens where recipes weren’t written but remembered. Where taste, not measurement, was the true guide.
When asked about a dish that best captures his approach, Defraitas didn’t hesitate.
“One of my favourite local dishes to make is pig foot souse, a dish that always sparks conversation,” he said.
Traditionally, souse is served with grated cucumber and a touch of hot pepper. But Defraitas decided to take the familiar weekend staple one step further.
“I added fresh herbs and colourful vegetables — garlic, sweet peppers, and my green seasoning blend — to the broth,” he said. “That small change turned out to be a banger. The mix of herbs added depth, fragrance, and freshness that balanced the tang from the lime and vinegar perfectly. It made the dish come alive in a new way. Still authentically Saint Lucian, just reimagined with a Chef Papi twist.”
Defraitas said his dishes often surprise and delight diners unfamiliar with Creole cuisine.
“People are often pleasantly surprised by my cuisine, and notice right away the bold and vibrant flavours which they may not be used to,” he said. “It’s always interesting to hear their feedback and see their reactions as they discover new spices, textures, and combinations through my cooking.”
As Mwa Éwitaj Kwéyòl continues, Defraitas’ story reflects the spirit of the season. For him, the recipe for cultural pride is simple: start with heritage, season with heart and serve with purpose.
Chef Papi’s Saint Lucian Fish Cakes (Accra)
Ingredients:
- 3 cups flour
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- 1 tbsp yeast
- Salt, onion powder, garlic powder, and black pepper (to taste)
- Saltfish (boiled and flaked)
- ½ garlic head, finely chopped
- Red and orange peppers (sweet), diced
- Yellow onion, diced
- Chives and green onions, finely chopped
- Vegetable oil (for frying)
Instructions:
- Boil the saltfish to remove excess salt, then flake into small pieces.
- Finely chop all vegetables and set aside.
- Combine flour, baking powder, yeast, and dry seasonings in a mixing bowl.
- Add the saltfish and vegetables to the dry ingredients.
- Slowly add room-temperature water, mixing until a smooth batter forms.
- Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour to allow flavours to develop.
- Heat oil in a frying pan and spoon the batter into the hot oil.
- Fry until golden brown on both sides.
- Drain on paper towels and serve with lime-chilli dip or Creole sauce.
Chef’s Note: Allow the batter to rest; this enhances both texture and flavour. Always fry in hot oil to get that perfect golden crust.
Cookbook link: https://payhip.com/b/ZFWf8
